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Ferry to Goose Bay

The Sir Robert Bond
The ferry between Lewisporte, Newfoundland and Goose Bay, Labrador, is not a luxury cruise, but it's not an unpleasant trip, especially if you're worn out from traveling, as we were. Note that the ferry was operated by Marine Atlantic in 1997, but it has since been taken over by the Newfoundland government, which will be using the same ship on this route. To the best of my knowledge, service will continue in more or less the same manner as before. Some observations that may help you plan your trip:
  • Contacting the provincial ferry service: For information and reservations, call 1-800-563-6353. The provincial Department of Works, Services and Transportation has a web page for its ferry services at http://www.gov.nf.ca/ferryservices/. The mailing address is:
      Transportation Services,
      Department of  Works, Services & Transportation
      Government of Newfoundland & Labrador
      6th. Floor, West Block, Confederation Building
      St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada A1B 4J6
      Attention: Community Liaison Officer
  • Schedule: The Sir Robert Bond sails from early June through early September, with departures every four days in each direction. Alternate trips stop at Cartwright. It takes about 38 hours to cover 100 nautical miles. Our trip was delayed by almost 24 hours because of serious mechanical problems a few days earlier, so be sure to check frequently with the ferry service about your departure time.
  • Reservations: If you're taking a vehicle, advance reservations are necessary. I've heard that passengers traveling without vehicles should have no difficulty getting aboard without reservations, but it hardly makes sense to travel so far without them.
  • Boarding: Marine Atlantic recommended arriving at the dock two hours before departure, and they meant it. Loading the ship is a slow process. Remember that the ship is always on Newfoundland time (30 minutes ahead of Atlantic Time, which is observed in Goose Bay).
  • Fares: In 1997, passage for a car and driver cost $257 (Canadian), including taxes. Rates differ depending on age and type of vehicle, so consult the ferry service for detailed information.
  • Accommodations: Two- and four-passenger cabins are available, and I recommend one if you want a relaxing trip. Accommodations are booked solid well in advance, so be sure to reserve early if you want them. If you can't book a cabin, ask to be added to the waiting list and then inquire at the purser's office when you board -- we were able to get a four-person cabin at the two-person rate this way, so be persistent. The cabins are cramped and very basic, but not too bad. Good showers are available in the rest rooms.
  • Food, Beverages, Entertainment: The ship's cafeteria serves good, plain food at reasonable prices. We had pork chops one night and fish for most other meals, and always lots of french fried potatoes with gravy. The small bar/lounge is open when the cafeteria is closed, and on our trip a modestly talented singer/guitarist performed an odd mix of country, rock, and Celtic/Traditional Newfoundland music for a few hours each night. The ship also has video gambling machines, video games, and a small gift shop, and movies are shown on the video monitors in the seating lounges (we saw "Mr. Holland's Opus").
  • The Ship: The Sir Robert Bond looks like a pretty old boat, but it's been kept up reasonably well and most of the areas have been updated to rougly approximate what you'll find on better Amtrak trains. You must climb lots of steep stairs to get around, especially to reach the cafeteria; I had pulled a muscle in my leg while hiking so it was a bit of a strain. I think some provisions have been made for handicapped passengers, but it would probably be hard to get around if your mobility is limited.
  • The Voyage: Aside from eating and drinking there's not a whole lot to do on the boat, so bring a book or two and just relax and observe the interesting mix of passengers on the trip. The weather was awful on our trip, so sightseeing was rather limited. We did see some small icebergs, and sighting the Labrador coast for the first time through the rain and fog was oddly thrilling. We had very rough seas the first night, which was fun after a few beers.
Return to Labrador, Part 1